Anti-age products contain ingredients designed to firm and smooth skin, reduce discoloration and slow aging. But how exactly do these ingredients work? That depends on their molecular weight and polarity – some molecules such as peptides or antioxidants only penetrate top layers of skin (epidermis and dermis tissues), while other, like zinc oxide or glutathione can penetrate more deeply.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is widely known for fighting free radicals that contribute to oxidative stress and age-related issues, leading to signs of aging. Additionally, it’s one of the essential water-soluble vitamins necessary for normal growth and development – it dissolves easily in water before being excreted through urine; so consumption needs to occur regularly in order for maximum benefit to occur.
Devon Peart, RD explains how topical vitamin C can help protect skin against sun damage while diminishing wrinkles, dark spots and acne scarring. Furthermore, topical Vitamin C improves nonheme iron absorption as well as supporting collagen production.
Vitamin C can be found in fresh fruits and vegetables such as oranges, grapefruit, cantaloupe, berries and tomatoes, along with leafy greens, cruciferous vegetables (broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower) and citrus juices. Vitamin C is sensitive to heat, light and air; therefore it’s best to opt for raw or lightly cooked products when looking to increase your vitamin intake.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide might sound like something out of a cosmetic brand’s laboratory, but it’s actually an abundance of Vitamin B3. Niacinamide could potentially address many common skin concerns including redness, hyperpigmentation and pore size issues.
Collagen is essential in producing new cells and can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles. Furthermore, collagen acts as an anti-inflammatory and balancer of oil production; making it suitable for people suffering from rosacea or other forms of sensitive skin conditions.
Niacinamide works wonders when combined with powerful ingredients like retinol, hyaluronic acid, AHAs/BHAs/vitamin C/peptides to enhance skin health and appearance. When coupled with personalized insights from CircleDNA Premium Test results, niacinamide becomes an integral part of creating tailored skincare regimes to address individual skin concerns.
Retinol
Vitamin A (or retinoids) are widely considered one of the most effective anti-aging ingredients, smoothing lines and wrinkles while simultaneously treating blemishes and acne. Retinoids work by encouraging cells to produce more collagen and elastin and speed up cell turnover – benefits which will only continue as we age further.
While there are multiple retinol products on the market, all work similarly. You may see “Retinol Palmitate” or “retinyl palmitate” listed as an ingredient of certain products as this weaker version can be used more safely for more sensitive formulations.
Retinol should be introduced gradually as it can cause temporary dryness and redness on application, however after several weeks the irritation should subside, and you should start seeing results such as reduced fine lines and spots. It typically takes six months before experiencing all the benefits from Retinol use.
Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally-occurring glycosaminoglycan found in connective tissues like tendons and joints, but its benefits also extend to skincare, providing plump and smooth appearance to the skin.
Hyaluronan can hold 1,000 times its own weight in water, making it an effective ingredient for hydrating the skin and smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. Furthermore, cosmetic products and injectable treatments often incorporate this ingredient as part of their ingredients list.
Hyaluronic acid is safe for all skin types, though for maximum effectiveness it should be combined with vitamin C, according to Gasquet. A layering regimen should also be followed so as to ensure all the ingredients work in harmony for maximum visible results.
Coenzyme Q10
Coenzyme Q10 is an antioxidant that works to prevent cell and tissue oxidative damage caused by free radicals. While naturally produced by our bodies, its levels diminish with age; supplements are also available as sources.
CoQ10 is an essential element in mitochondrial energy production and acts as an antioxidant to counteract oxidative stress. Our bodies can convert CoQ10 between its reduced ubiquinol and oxidized ubiquinone forms for efficient usage in our daily lives.
Studies have demonstrated that long-term supplementation of CoQ10 with long-term supplements improves heart failure and blood pressure, immune system function and physical performance. Because it can interact with certain medications, it’s wise to discuss its use with your health care provider prior to supplementation. CoQ10 can be found in oily fish, organ meats and whole grains, while one small randomized controlled trial showed it improved insulin secretion while slowing hearing loss progression (MIDD trial).